The Valley of the Kings and Queens and the Nile River. Part II of My Visit and Experience in Egypt By Charles E. Muhammad

Brother Charles Muhammad In Egypt

In this powerful reflection, Brother Charles E. Muhammad invites us to part 2 of his journey with him through the timeless beauty and deep spirituality of Egypt. With every word, he shares not just the history he witnessed but the emotions, lessons, and connections he felt along the way. His storytelling brings ancient wonders to life and reminds us that history is not just something we study — it's something we experience and carry within us.

Story by contributing writer Charles E. Muhammad

After experiencing the majesty of the Sphinx and the Great Pyramids at the Giza Plateau, I was eager to continue my journey at the Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo. I had long been fascinated by mummies since childhood, and now I stood face-to-face with them—bodies thousands of years old. My mind was filled with a mix of wonder and a slight tinge of fear.

The Ancient Egyptians believed that the soul needed a body to express itself in the afterlife. To preserve the body’s features for this purpose, they mummified their royalty—and even their pets and servants. There is a room in the museum dedicated solely to mummified animals. Minimal lighting heightened the room’s eerie atmosphere, and the animals were so well preserved they appeared merely asleep. I found myself whispering, instinctively afraid that loud talking might awaken the crocodiles, hippos, and snakes.

The museum also boasts an incredible collection of statues and artwork. Among them is one of the world’s smallest statues—you actually need a magnifying glass to fully appreciate its exquisite details. Ironically, this tiny statue depicts Pharaoh Khufu, the builder of the largest of the three Great Pyramids.

The Egyptian Museum is also home to busts and artwork of Pharaoh Akhenaten and his Queen, Nefertiti. Akhenaten is renowned for introducing monotheism into Egyptian culture, while Nefertiti is celebrated for her extraordinary beauty. Yet their son, Tutankhamun—better known as "King Tut"—has become the most famous of all.

After Akhenaten's death, Tutankhamun became Pharaoh at just nine years old and ruled until his untimely death at nineteen. His fame soared thousands of years later, when his tomb was discovered in the early 1900s, revealing an astonishing treasure trove valued today at over a billion dollars. His burial mask alone is estimated to be worth more than 25 million dollars and rests in a private room where photography is strictly prohibited. Beyond King Tut, the museum offers an incredible view into the royal and noble life of Ancient Egypt.

While in Cairo, I also visited the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, often called the Alabaster Mosque because of its alabaster stone construction. Built in 1848 by Muhammad Ali Pasha, the ruler of Egypt from 1805 to 1849, it stands within the Citadel of Saladin—the great Muslim military leader who once captured Jerusalem during the Crusades.

Praying in the mosque, knowing Saladin himself once prayed within those walls, was humbling beyond words. Interestingly, on that day, I wore a T-shirt bearing the name Muhammad Ali—the legendary African-American boxer—a beautiful coincidence that felt like a spiritual nod from history.

After Cairo, I took a short hour-and-a-half flight to Luxor, located in what is known as "Upper Egypt." Although Luxor lies south of Cairo, the designation stems from the Nile River’s unique flow from south to north. Stretching over 4,000 miles and passing through 11 countries, the Nile is the longest river on Earth and was once the lifeblood of Ancient Egypt, transporting people and goods throughout the region.

Though Cairo is home to the Pyramids, Luxor holds far more sites of fascination. From the Valley of the Kings and Queens to the Temples of Karnak and Abu Simbel, Luxor demands more time to explore. While I typically spent one or two days in Cairo, I always dedicated double that in Luxor.

My journey in Luxor began at the Valley of the Kings, a burial ground hidden behind rugged mountains. Pharaohs built their tombs directly into the cliffs to shield them from grave robbers. This sprawling complex of temples and tombs is grand and majestic, with soaring columns and walls blanketed in hieroglyphics recounting the kings’ mighty deeds.

Pharaohs Ramses II and Ramses III, known for their military might, have left behind carvings that attest to their victories. One wall at Ramses II’s temple dramatically depicts him grabbing an enemy by the hair and decapitating him. Another at Ramses III’s temple chillingly shows a pile of male private parts, symbolizing his defeat of rival armies.

Within the Valley of the Kings rests the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun, whose mummified body still lies within. Initially, I obeyed the rules, taking a photo from behind the security barrier. Yet, a warm, inviting energy seemed to draw me closer. Remarkably, the security guard offered to take a closer picture with my phone and even allowed me beyond the gate to stand beside King Tut’s remains—an honor extended to very few. In that sacred moment, I felt a deep connection beyond time, space, and sound.

The Valley of the Kings is also home to the tomb of a female king—Hatshepsut. Her life story rivals the finest dramas. She was both the wife and half-sister of Pharaoh Thutmose II. After his death, his young son, Thutmose III, was too young to rule, so Hatshepsut assumed the role of regent. Eventually, she crowned herself Pharaoh and ruled successfully for 22 years, overseeing monumental building projects like the Temple of Karnak and expanding Egypt’s wealth. Once Thutmose III came of age and ascended the throne, he sought revenge by defacing many of her monuments, angered that her reign delayed his own.

Next, I visited the temple of Ramses II, which remains impressively intact. Having learned from history, Ramses II had the hieroglyphics deeply engraved to withstand the erosion and vandalism that befell earlier temples. His temple walls chronicle his legacy and prayers for the afterlife. Nearby lie the ruins of his palace, including remnants of guest bedrooms and private baths—an incredible testament to the ancient Egyptians’ mastery of running water, later emulated by the Greeks and Romans.

As I mentioned earlier, Luxor is an extraordinary place filled with awe-inspiring stories. To truly recount all my experiences would require volumes. My deepest hope is that my journey inspires you to one day walk these sacred grounds yourself.

Whenever I visited Luxor, I stayed at the Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, a five-star oasis along the Nile with breathtaking sunset views behind the distant mountains. The beauty of those evenings is something words can scarcely capture.

Yet Egypt’s greatest treasure isn't its gold, statues, or architecture—it's its spirit. The spirituality of Egypt is profound, layered, and eternal. Three visits have only scratched the surface of all there is to discover. I pray to organize a group trip soon, and I eagerly look forward to hearing about your own journeys. I am excited to learn from you, just as I hope you have gleaned something from my experiences.

Thank you for allowing me to share another piece of my heart with you.

Sincerely and best wishes, Charles E. Muhammad